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Agreed 100%. On my last printer, I would print PETG at 80C. But on this SV08 90C seems to be the sweet spot for PETG on the stock PEI Sheet. At 90C on this PEI sheet, it sticks REALLY well, and when it cools, sometimes it releases on it's own.

@@beachbumberry no issues with the load cells and leveling. It works fine with glass.

@ that’s awesome, I’m going to give it a shot. Thanks!

That's a cool fix idea! Yes, I did notice that the "Eddy Current Probe" is not the best, and even after heat soaking, it's not perfect. I also heard that part of it could be because the SV08 Nozzle also expands a bit when heated. Also, since I ultimately want to go with multiple nozzles, I am hoping to do away with the probe altogether, and instead install piezo sensors at the bottom of the bed, similar to the K1 Max.

I also ordered this printer just a few days ago and was pleased to see your vid.also ordered 3 additional toolheads for lateron to make toolchanger.. Also have doubts about the sensor but will have to wait and see.. Will have a look at your suggested alternative. Hope not too need to replace because with the toolchanger in future that will mean buying 4?! Still not sure if perhaps bltouch or klicky would be better for if I ever want to have a non metal bed plate.. Was my best plate on my previous printer.. Never had problem with it.. Everything was sticking without any gleu or what have ya

@@scorpioo4320 I have the same concern. That is why I am hoping to switch to a piezo based sensor under the bed, that will sense the bed by actually touching the nozzle to the bed. This way, I won't need 4 or more different sensors when I am implementing the tool-changer. In terms of the eddy current based sensor that it comes with - I have ultimately changed the Z-Offset Probing test script to run at 90C (since I print PETG at 90C), and also run the script after 15 minutes of heat soaking. I have also removed the z-offset probing before each print, because that was causing disasters. So, after the one time z-offset probing is complete (after heat soaking for 15 minutes), I just print after 1 minute of heat soaking after each print. Now, ideally, 15 minutes of heat soaking is required from a cold start. But, that would be too much time bwtween prints. And since I print back to back often, I just kept the heat soak at START_PRINT to just 1 minute, and it is working perfectly for me.

@@MATT_ELEKTRON Sure! I used 250C nozzle temp, 65C bed temp for only the 1st layer, and then turned the heater off, until the end of the print. You need to heat it up again to be able to peel the TPU off the bed. Slowed down acceleration to 1000 for everything except travel. Ensured I use the generic TPU profile in ORCA, as the base to ensure the filament volumetric limits are set properly. And that’s it. Worked like magic. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thanks for watching!

That is awesome! My ultimate goal for this printer is to install a multi-nozzle system, and I know at least 2 RUclipsrs have done it. But, I will do some simpler mods before I get to that one. The SV08 stock nozzle is actually working better than the rumors I have heard. For the multi-nozzle system, I am hoping to keep the stock nozzle, and then add various others to the mix to keep the cost low and also to leverage different features. Thanks for watching!

Congratulations on your SV08! And thank you for the kind words! I will be posting many more videos of the SV08 soon. It's such a beautiful machine, and unlike my previous printers it just works and any issue is easy to solve thanks to the large community around it!

@@VoiYT I have haven't purchased my sv08 yet, but I will once I get enough money to!

@@Ronoaldo I used the CR10 glass bed directly. I wouldn’t try what you are suggesting though. Not only it will require more permanent changes, printing on glass is just so much better than printing on those coated sheets. Also it would introduce more complexity. Not to mention, poor bed heating .

The K1 MAX Extruder has it built into it, and the 2 pairs of wires just come out of it.

Thanks for your interest! It's not uploaded yet. I will let you know when it's uploaded. Thanks!

It’s a franchise chain “Mango Mango”. It’s in many cities. But unfortunately not here in Columbus.

@@beverlygiroux2824 Exactly! And someone needs to stop the government from paying for these with our money!

@@memeaficionado Oxford Casino has just replaced the other hand dryers, in one of the women’s bathroom……

Smugglers' Notch Resort in Jeffersonville, VT

Hi! This same circuit and code can be used with any kind of heater. This particular heating element is running with 110v AC. I am just using a relay controlled by a ESP32 to maintain a given temperature. I am using a NPN transistor to drive the relay using one of the GPIO pins of ESP32. And I am using another GPIO pin to get the temperature using a DS18B20 1-Wire Digital Temperature Sensor. Hope this helps!

@@VoiYT thank you!

Bought the K1 Max for $650, last year. It had clogging issues, that I fixed with a solution that I have also posted a video for. Got rid of it this year, since I am thinking of building some Vorons. The Ender 7 you see beside it - that one I bought used for $200 back in 2021. It also had some issues that I fixed, and then got rid of it, because the build volume is too small. Currently I have a JGAurora A5S upgraded with direct drive - also posted video on this. Planning on doing some input-shaping on it to speed it up. The JGAurora A5S has solid motion system with linear rails on all axes and 300 cube build volume. Which means, that ancient printer has huge upgrade potential.

It's not the most efficient solution, but yes it works, if you don't have anything else in hand. I have since built a better filament dryer using: - Salvaged CPU Fan - Salvaged heating element - ESP32 + DS18B20 to control the temperature That's a way better solution than anything else. The filament dryers from China are garbage.

iPhone 12 Mini. And then I typically auto-level and brighten the shadows a bit. Not a pro setup, but it costs nothing. 😅

Used the Glass Plate without changing anything else for months, and didn't have any issues. The wipe on the glass worked very well. The nozzle never touched the glass. It just laid the plastic on the glass, which stuck to the glass very well. And after the print, I just scraped off the plastic with a plastic spatula.

@@VoiYT thanks mate! sorry for effectively asking again but just to make sure I understood correctly : did you actively use pressure advance with this config? ( did the printer draw the zigzag lines at the start of the print) Also, big thanks for taking the time to be thorough with you responses. Really helpful and caring. Appreciate it hugely.

@@stathisbikos6563 that’s actually a good question. I did remove the lidar from the K1 and disabled calibration before each print as that makes it too slow. So no, I was not doing pressure advance calibration regularly, but the quality of my prints were pretty good as you can see in my videos.

@@VoiYT Understood. That does worry me slightly, because I do use the lidar and I'm not quite sure how it will behave with the height change. Mandala Rose Works makes a 6mm machined bed for the max and they specifically mention that if you intend to use the lidar functions you need to raise the calibration target with an adapter, so I'm guessing it's probably important. You can only get the stickers from creality support which is a bit of a hassle, but I guess I have to.

@@stathisbikos6563 Well I wasn’t worried about Creality Lidar because apparently their lidar code was “fake news” at least until November 2023. I do not know if they fixed it since and made it do something to improve prints. But last year, it was definitely just extra weight. Also I didn’t notice any lidar on K2 Plus. I think LiDAR is being phased out as it was a gimmick that BambuLab started, and then they all realized there are better ways to do it. I don’t see Vorons with LiDAR either snd they are universally accepted as the best 3D printers. I would much rather have a lighter and more compact Hotend without the lidar.

Good idea!

@@VoiYT haha people love that hair going up and down videos the whole channel can be that It’s good hair 👱‍♀️

3D Printed Hair Pin

Great question! This phone uses USB-C charger, and while a lot of people LOVE USB-C chargers, they are so complex, that the cords break often, and stops fast charging. After several braided and other USB-C charging cables broke, we decided to just stick to wireless, as they don’t break easily (because the wire going to the charger is only power supply, and not the complicated data wires like in USB-C), and charges fast.

Maryland, Ohio!

Black hole sun

I wish! 🤣 Maybe someday I will be able to sell complex products like this. But, it’s much easier to build things for myself compared to shipping products to others.